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Article Dans Une Revue Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans Année : 2016

Wave transformation and shoreline water level on Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu


The influence of sea swell (SS) waves, infragravity (IG) waves, and wave setup on maximum runup (Rmax) is investigated across different tidal stages on Fatato Island, Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu. Field results illustrate that SS waves are tidally modulated at the shoreline, with comparatively greater wave attenuation and setup occurring at low tide versus high tide. A shoreward increase in IG wave height is observed across the 100 m wide reef flat at all tidal elevations, with no tidal modulation of IG wave height at the reef flat or island shoreline. A 1-D shock-capturing Green-Naghdi solver is used to replicate the field deployment and analyze Rmax. Model outputs for SS wave height, IG wave height and setup at the shoreline match field results with model skill >0.96. Model outputs for Rmax are used to identify the temporal window when geomorphic activity can occur on the beach face. During periods of moderate swell energy, waves can impact the beach face at spring low tide, due to a combination of wave setup and strong IG wave activity. Under mean wave conditions, the combined influence of setup, IG waves and SS waves results in interaction with island sediment at midtide. At high tide, SS and IG waves directly impact the beach face. Overall, wave activity is present on the beach face for 71% of the study period, a significantly longer duration than is calculated using mean water level and topographic data.
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hal-01443074 , version 1 (22-01-2017)



Edward Beetham, Paul S Kench, Joanne O'Callaghan, Stéphane Popinet. Wave transformation and shoreline water level on Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu. Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans, 2016, 121 (1), pp.311-326. ⟨10.1002/2015JC011246⟩. ⟨hal-01443074⟩
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